Calico fabric dates back centuries, with designs originating in the 11th and 12th centuries. However, its discovery by Europeans in the 17th and 18th century brought this versatile fabric to the masses. The fabric was first created in the southwestern state of India called Kerala and is named after the city Kozhikode, also known in English as Calicut. During the 18th century, English traders imported calico fabric to the UK and this caused tension with the established wool trade in North England. As a result, companies hoping to protect the textile market tried to influence law changes and bans on calico materials. While this was primarily unsuccessful, the British market flourished and started weaving and printing cotton on home soil. Then, in the 1800s, cotton was imported from the US, and machinery was created to weave fabrics together quickly and, ultimately, cheaply.
Calico material is made on a loom and is often known as half-processed cotton because it does not go through any other finishing or treatment process after it leaves the loom. Calico has many benefits, including the fact that it is so cheap. It starts from just a few pounds per metre (countries on the metric system) or yard (36 inches, used in the United States). [in 2024, calico by the yard used for quilting, which would be similar to the calico used for clothing at this time, was advertised at $6.99 per yard.] Calico fabric is also easy to look after if it does get dirty. It can be washed in a machine provided it is a warm or cold wash under 30°. [John B.’s mother would not have had an electric or gas washing machine or dryer.]
It’s also more durable than many other fabrics for daily use. This is why it is often considered ideal for high-traffic items like bags and aprons that are used in lots of potentially messy situations every single day.